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Density and underlay: the settings by fabric

Density is the gap between two rows of stitches. Too wide, the fabric shows through; too tight, the design puckers and breaks needles. Here are the values, fabric by fabric, measured on a machine.


Three settings, one goal

Density is the spacing between two rows of stitches in a fill or a satin: 0.35 mm means one centimetre receives 28 rows. Underlay is a first pass of light stitches (contour, perpendicular rows, zigzag) that flattens the fabric and gives the fill a foundation: without it, the stitches sink into a soft fabric and the fabric shows. Pull compensation widens every shape by a few tenths because the thread, as it tightens, pulls the fabric inwards. All three depend on the fabric.

The table

FabricFill densitySatin densityUnderlayCompensationStabilizer
Twill, heavy cotton canvas0.35 mm0.35 mmContour + tatami0.20 mmTear-away
Piqué polo0.38 mm0.38 mmContour + cross tatami0.30 mmCut-away
Jersey T-shirt0.40 mm0.40 mmCross tatami, zigzag under satin0.35 mmCut-away, light
Sweatshirt, fleece0.40 mm0.38 mmTatami + water-soluble topping0.30 mmCut-away
Structured cap0.38 mm0.38 mmContour + tatami0.25 mmCap tear-away
Leather, faux leather0.45 mm0.45 mmContour only0.15 mmTear-away, leather needle
Terry, towels0.35 mm0.35 mmTatami + water-soluble topping0.30 mmTear-away + topping

These values are those of the reference fabrics built into the studio; choosing the fabric at the Size step applies them to every object. They were tuned on a Tajima with 40-weight polyester thread; rayon thread needs 5% less density, 60-weight (fine) thread 10% more.

The density test: stitch once, know for good

Every machine, every thread and every fabric shifts these values a little. Rather than groping around, stitch the studio's density test (Tools ▸ Density test): a row of filled circles, a row of satin rings and a row of fill + border, at several labelled densities (0.30, 0.35, 0.40, 0.45, 0.50 mm). Look at it in raking light: the right density is the widest one that does not let the fabric show. Enter it in "Global density", which multiplies every spacing in the design, and save the fabric as a reference.

Symptoms and their causes

Frequently asked questions

What is the default density?

0.35 mm with tatami underlay, the studio's value, tuned on real embroidery. It is a starting point, not a truth.

Density in lines per millimetre or in millimetres?

The studio uses the spacing in millimetres (0.35 mm). Some software talks in lines per millimetre: 0.35 mm ≈ 2.9 lines/mm ≈ 7 lines per quarter inch.

Does underlay add many stitches?

10 to 20% on a fill, less on a satin. It prevents a failed design, which costs more.

Go further

Ready to stitch?

The studio is free to draw, open and check designs. Your first machine file takes five minutes.

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Updated 2026-09-24.